The markers are intensely colored and dry quickly, so you need to be light-handed when applying them and quick-handed when wiping the excess ink away. Just for reference, I used these markers extensively over a sealed white oak floor stained a very dark brown that had numerous scratches from a contractor who had a nail in his boot. (Thanks.) I used the mahogany marker primarily, but layered it over or under the lighter and darker markers to match the variations in color across the scratches. In a nutshell, these markers worked extremely well for the purpose. A very few scratches resisted the ink or just took on too much ink even when using the lightest color. (Be very careful using the cherry marker. It looks very red even dark wood.) Starting small and testing is wise.

Because of their broad point, it's easy to overstain the margins of a narrow scratch. Whenever I didn't remove the ink as fast as I applied it, the ink sealed itself to the wood and looked obvious. So, I learned to start off by testing a small portion of the scratch with the lightest color I thought would work and wiping the ink off immediately with a dry paper towel. I either went back over it with the same marker if the first pass proved to be too light, or shifted to a darker shade. I found that if I layered the colors (dark over light or light over dark), I could handily match most areas of the scratches. I discovered that I could "remove" or lessen the visual impact of ink that had been overdrawn on the margins of scratches simply by redrawing over the area and quickly wiping. Where Where the ink didn't come off entirely, it had the effect of feathering the color and making it look subtle. Again, this was on sealed, dark wood. You'd never have a hope of doing that to unsealed wood. It might work on sealed blond wood, but you'd need to test and have fast hands.

The wax for me was more trouble than it was worth, but I did manage to jam a lighter color than I needed into some of the deeper scratches (that took work) and then applied the lightest marker over that, gradually used darker markers (wiping as I went) to achieve the desired results. Endless combinations there--too many, frankly.

All-in-all, pretty darn good.

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This product not only repairs nicks and scratches in wood and laminated products but is excellent for hiding the light exposed edge of veneers. This can dramatically improve the look of inexpensive laminated/veneered shelving, etc. I love these markers!

Some Thoughts --
These are really juicy markers - pretty wet compared to conventional markers. There's a lot of stain in each one so you get good mileage out of each. This really offsets the whole issue of price vs not using all the colors. Also, the covers have a really positive snap fit - you have to push hard to click them closed but that should seal these up and keep them moist for a long time. Double check when you are done.

The stain works best on unfinished/exposed wood (like the bottom of a scratch). Even fairly large unfinished areas take the stain uniformly without obvious striping from adjacent marker strokes. However, finished or non-absorbent surfaces are a little more problematic and are where quick smudging/blending with your thumb to feather the stain comes in.

Veneer Edges --
For dressing the edge of finishing veneers on corners, hold the broad side of the marker at a 45 degree angle to the two corner faces and leaning forward a bit and just swipe the length of the edge lightly. There will be minimum contact to either of the two faces adjacent to the corner and very little if any color feathering required.

Removing Excess Stain --
For hiding surface scratches the idea is to color the scratch but not the surrounding finished surface. This is virtually impossible considering the width of the marker tip, but it's pretty easy to remove the excess stain since it turns out the marker stain is alcohol-soluble. I use Zeiss Lens Cleaning Wipes (available on Amazon). They are soaked in alcohol, are lint-free, and have a relatively hard surface that does not easily deform into scratches/nicks when wiping. They only stay moist for a couple of minutes, but that's workable. So - use the marker to make the color repair, then rub the alcohol wipe lightly over the repaired area to remove the excess surface stain but leave the stain in the scratch which is below the surface. Wipe perpendicular to the scratch (cross-ways not long-ways) so the wipe will tend to skip over the stain in the scratch. Don't press down since that will push the wipe into the damaged area and remove the stain that you want to keep. Done.

Since the wipes remove the stain easily, even botched color matches, etc are easy to clean up for another try. The alcohol wipes work great on laminates but use care on unwaxed wood surfaces since alcohol can remove existing stain.

Anyhow - the photos show a quickie 2 minute repair to a badly scratched laminated desktop using the lens wipe technique. This nasty scratch has been there for years and is now virtually invisible. Amazing results!

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This kit has several different colors for touch ups. Comes with markers and little crayons. The best part is you can match anything just by blending the colors together. We have lots of different wood on the house and in the last I have gone to the store and did my best to color match from a photo, come home and it didn’t match. The price of this entire package is the price of two touch up pens from he store so it is definitely the better but. Lastly, this touches up cabinets, laminate, tables, frames, cabinets, bookshelves, flooring...you name it.

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I recently had laminate flooring installed. To my horror as I was vacuuming a bottle of wine fell from the wine holder and dinged my new floor. Being a perfectionist I knew that I could not live with the dings, especially with them being in such a visible area. So I called the installer and he said that it would be $200 to fix. I saw this product on Amazon and thought I would give it a try -- if it didn't work, then I would pay to have it replaced. Well, to my surprise this WORKED like a charm!!! I used the Mahogany marker (I read the reviews that said the crayons are not effective, so I threw them in the trash right off the bat) and dabbed the area 3 times until the color matched. I walked away to get my phone to take a pic and when I returned, I literally had to get down on my knees to find the spot. Like I said, I am a PERFECTIONIST and not easily satisfied with DIY fixes, but this proved to the best $9 investment of my life!

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Comes with 6 color markers and 5 filler sticks, with a sharpener. The markers are maple, walnut, mahogany, cherry, oak, and black. The filler sticks come in all colors except black. They get the job done. I attached a before and after photos of my coffee table.

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This repair kit worked exactly as I expected it would. I used these to repair the housing on some high end tower speakers. There were some glaring blemishes on them. After using these, you can’t tell they were ever damaged unless you look very closely and know where to look.

Matching the color to the best of your ability will give you the best results. I used paper to feel out the colors, and used the closest match. You can also blend the colors pretty effectively.

This kit gives you a lot of options to mix and match. With a little work, you’ll be very happy with your results.

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While the 5pc kit colors seem to be more on the reddish side (as opposed to yellow), for the items that I was able to use these on, I'm very, very happy.

The directions leave something to be desired, so this is what I did: once I'd determined that the stain pen was the right color, I applied it to the surface to be stained in the direction of the wood grain; I then immediately used my finger to remove the "overage" (all stain that was outside of the area I actually wanted to stain); you need to be super-quick when wiping! Despite being quick, there were still done areas where I wasn't even quick enough. I originally tried the method of using a cloth to remove the excess stain, but it seemed to remove too much. If you don't get full coverage on an area, just go back over it. Very important: if you are planning to use both the pencil (crayon, essentially) as well as the stain pen, use the stain pen FIRST; the stain from the stain pen will NOT penetrate the crayon (wax). For the best results, apply a clear coat to the stained area which matches the lustre of the original finish. I personally did not do this, though. I've only recently completed the projects, so I can't speak to longevity yet, but overall I'm very happy.

Note that the crayons are quite small.

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You can go cheap and use a Sharpie to hide scratches on your cabinet, but these markers honestly do the job really well and when you step back, you can't even tell where you've drawn on. I would buy these again.
I don't use the wax sticks though since I'm not sure how I'm supposed to apply them properly (I've tried).

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My brand new desk suffered some scratches, and these markers did the job. I also went around and fixed other thin scratches on other furniture, and it does a great job.

The shades are a good selection for different wood.

Highly recommend.

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Very handy product that allowed us to re-fresh 20 year old high end birch chairs! We used a dark Old English scratch remover followed by these markers, and it saved us a ton as we no longer need to pay a professional to refinish the chairs.